The Runnel (II,120m), Coire an t’Sneachda, Cairngorms


A January trip to the Cairngorms in what turned out to be a good window of good climbing conditions. Low temperatures and lots of snow meant routes were in great nik. Unfortunately the weather conditions weren’t as ideal. Persistent blizzards coupled with storm force gales meant venturing out into the Cairgorms was only for the super committed (or those who had traveled all the way from London).

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Heinous walk in
As a group of five we made our way for the sheltered gullies in Coire an t’Sneachda. A 5.30am start made it all the more bleak. Up in the corrie the visibility was minimal and we just about made out the start of the The Runnel (II) – a snow plod which was heavily banked out. I led the way putting in no protection whatsoever which begged the question- why the climbing rope. Higher up the slope the snow was almost chest deep and I had the feeling that I was wading  up a large cone of snow that could avalanche at any moment . There was of course the overhanging summit cornice to bash through. Which was real fun and games and resulted in me hauling myself onto the summit plateau like a snow covered beached wale.

 


Miserable belay

 

View from my belay


 

 
Looking down the Runnel...Just a snow plod by this point

We bagged a couple more routes of a similar grade and style (like Fiacaill Couloir, II) before calling it a day. Unfortunately the next day bought warmer weather and the dreaded rain that often comes with it. In order to get something done we headed out for a somewhat miserable walk around the lower hills – purely for the fresh air and exercise.

 

Snow hole shelter

 


The inside....better than out!