Gogarth (E1, 112m), A DoWH (HVS, 130m), Anglesey
The climbing in Holyhead island can be broadly split into 4 zones... North Stack, South Stack, Holyhead Mountain, and Rhoscolyn. The Rock on the North Stack area tends to be angular slate like quartzite. Though covered in sea grass on occasion the rock is usually good. All the cliffs here require an abseil approach (bar parts of the Main Cliff), and are adventurous undertakings amongst grand rock architecture, a sense of remoteness, and often with an audience of seals. It's awesome climbing!
I met up with Jim and Ron in this wild section of the coast and we climbed some of the local classics. Well worth the 5 hour slog across the country. The highlight of this trip was an ascent of Gogarth (E1, 112m). The route is located on the awesome Main cliff and although is often asosciated with North Stack we approah from the South Stack carpark. We chose to abseil into the climb rather than the treacherous approach. This involved a huge abseil on a static line from a large bock to a ledge where we then used our climbing ropes to abseil to the base.
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| The steep scramble to the protruding cannon stone -Abseil Point |
Four pitches of good quality climbing followed. The first (mine) felt about VS and is the obvious corner. The second belonged to Jim with some airy traverse moves. Ron blasted straight up chossy ground to save time (not sure he went the correct way).
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I then led the final pitch (E1 5b) consisting of a traverse from the belay followed by a steep couple of pulls through overhangs. I remember wishing I had placed more gear before committing as the holds felt a tad greasy. From there it is steep climbing past some hollow sounding flakes. All good though.
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| Jim approaching the top out |
We also bagged another quality piece of Gogarth climbing North West Passage (E1, 62m) located at Castel Hellyn at South Stack. The South Stack area tends to be made up of a more bizarre form of red quartz sandstone. This is softer and therefore a bit more serious to climb on. However it usually gives very climbable routes with large holds and features.
Ron and Jim kindly let me lead the top pitch of this great route. Absolutely brilliant positions. Good gear, good rock, whats not to like?
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We arrived at Wen Zawn at North Stack Sack early due to the low tide time. With no one else around abbing down to the water level felt quite committing and isolated. We planed on doing the first pitch and while this can be easily boycotted, I found this highly worthwhile and definitely added to the hole experience.
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| The amphitheater of Wen Zawn |
The 50m static rappel rope was barely long enough and I touched down as soon as the belay plate hit the knot. The climbing throughout the route is steady and the intimidating final pitch (which is what it is all about) is remarkably straightforward. That said if it weren't for the chalked up holds route finding would be the most challenging aspect of an ascent.
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| Following teams on Dream.... |