The small island of Lundy is a really special place to climb. Just a two hour boat ride on the MS Oldenburg from Ilfracombe and you are really in another world. One pub, one church, one shop, one campsite, no cars. Thankfully loads of great granite sea cliffs.
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With just four days on the island we wasted no time. As soon as our kit was dispatched from the ship we headed for our first objective- American Beauty (HVS, 100m). With a 100m abseil to reach the platform we had to tie my 50m static to Pilars 60m sport rope (Yep we hiked in with 230m of rope!) . Passing the knot was a breeze thanks to the slabby nature of the abseil. However it takes a good hour to get us both to the platform.
At the base with an audience of large seals we start to appreciate how hot it is. No wind and the crag basking in the afternoon sun we feel quite fatigued. The 5am start now catching up with us. Still we climb the route which is as good as expected. It is pitch 2 that really stands out - 45m of slab (some run-outs) and a cheeky overlap to negotiate. A good start to the weekend.
 | | Pilar coming down |
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 | Finishing Pitch 1
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 | Approaching the belay on pitch 2
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We do the obligatory thing on day two and head to the Devils Slide. We are there super early which meant we had the cliff to our selves. Pilar led The Devils Slide (HS). I then jump on Satan's Slip (E1). A great route but very little good protection. We finish on Albion (VS) happy that we have bagged three star classics at the Island's "go to" crag.
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 | | The abseil - tame by Lundy standards |
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 | Pilar taking a very purist line on pitch 2 of Devils Slide
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 | Two other teams arrived - Satan's Slip & DS
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With low tide at 8.30am we had to get up super early to bag our first sea stack. The Devil's Chimney (HVS, 40m) lies in Jenny's Cove and is an intimidating place to climb. Getting down to the base involves an abseil down a grassy chossy bank. After which you are deposited on the sea bed where wet boulder hopping lands you at the base of the stack. The tide was already coming in by the time we were both down (finding and setting up the abseil quite a faff) and as such trying to figure out where the route starts was beginning to feel quite urgent. After looking at a compass and rereading the guidebook description over and over we think we have determined the west face (not as obvious as you would think) and pick a line that vaguely matches the description.
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 | | The approach |
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 | | Pilar topping out |
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 | Me heading up to belay 1
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I string the first two pitches into one as despite traversing over a large ledge that would give lots of rope drag, I am now getting mildly concerned by the encroaching waves. The way we climb the first pitch I would probably give VS 4c or possibly HVS 4c. The first groove was hard to protect (micro cams) with really not good consequences of a ground fall. That said the climbing is reasonably steady. We then ramble over the ledge system where steep and surprisingly good quality climbing up broken cracks deposits us on the ledge below the final head wall and a belay. From here it is quality 4c climbing to the top.
We take a couple of summit shots, look at the absolute cluster mess of tat now littering the summit stone (but had no time to remove) , set up an abseil and descend. Pilar headed down first. Free hanging the whole way she has a job untangling the ropes as she descends. In fact this takes about 10 minutes as some how the ropes get really knotted. I descend and breath a sigh of relief, as although the water is only a few feet away its clear we will make it to the ab rope. We haul ourselves back up the cliff. Quality stuff.
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 | | Me on the free hanging Ab |
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 | | The scary abseil |
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 | Pilar desperately untangling
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 | Ascending the cliff
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Elation after climbing our first sea stack
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We stop off at the classic sea arch Flying Buttress to climb Diamond Solitaire (VS) on the way back. Perfect granite and a real atmospheric crag with the tide in and the swell pounding the cliffs (it was a calm day too) .
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 | Staying dry - just
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 | Me on pitch 2 - Pleasant climbing
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We have chilled morning at Beaufort Buttress the following day before catching the boat. Lundy - on the list for a return visit!
