The town of Huaraz is situated in the Cordillera Blaca in northern Perú is regarded as a trekking and climbing hub of Latin America. Countless single and multi-day treks are found in the surrounding Cordillera Blanco mountains and real Alpine challenges of well over 6000m. Great sport climbing is also on hand at Huatun Machay.
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| 6000ers from the hostel window |
I spent 6 days in the town heading out into the hills every day to hike. I focused on day hikes, as whilst I would have liked to trek for multiply days, it was still the wet season and the afternoon rains were ferocious. My one-man trekking tent had only really been tested in California and Mexico (essentially deserts).
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 | Bustling Huaraz
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 | When it rains..it rains!
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Getting to the trailheads involves taking a Combi. Combis are minibuses that run on a colectivo basis meaning they wait until they are full before leaving. This does involve some asking around to find out where they leave from. Generally speaking, Combis are very cheap. That said, many of the picturesque lakes located north of Hauraz are very popular with trekking tourists. As such some colectivos have significantly marked up tourist prices.
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Dodgy afternoon rains
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The treks I did were the following......
Glacier de Laguna Llaca...
This was a very tough hike that took me one hour alone to arrive at the hike start from the colectivo drop-off near Pitec. Heading up through a beautiful valley flanked by cliffs and culminating in the lake and glacier below Ranrapalca mountain. I actually scrambled all the way up to the glacier (which is melting fast). Up at the lake I bumped into Alex a local guide on a training course. We chatted about doing Huarapasca later in the week.
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 | | The valley |
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 | | The glacia |
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 | | The view down to Huaraz |
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Laguna Wilcacocha...
A lovely little half day outing a short colectivo ride away. Great views of the Cordillera and a charming little lake at which to chill and relax. As per most hikes you'll pass local villagers going about their farming duties.
 | | Sleepy dog |
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 | | Wilcacocha |
|  | | Locals |
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The Three Llagunas...
This brutal hike passes Lake Radian (stunning) before a brutal slog up to 4700m at Lake Mullaca and Lake Carhuac. I toyed with heading over the Pass of Zoro (5000m) and it would have made the hike a perfect loop. However climbing alone through a 5km high pass in highly volitile afternoon weather would have been dangerous. I was out of food and the climb to the pass would have been extremely arduous. So I returned the same way getting hailed on whilst descending (a good decision as it turns out). Another tough outing.
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 | | Lake Radian |
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 | | Guardians of the Lakes |
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 | | Laguna Mullaca. 4700m |
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Pukaventana Canyon...
No need for a colectivo, this beautiful hike starts and finishes in Huaraz. A worthwhile hike that gives views of both the town, the Cordillera, and an interesting canyon.
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 | | Shaky weather on the walk in |
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 | | Local band in Huaraz |
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 | | Huaraz from Pukaventana |
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Southeast Ridge, Nevado Huarapasca, Perú (PD+, 5420m)...
After meeting Alex, a local mountain guide, up at Laguna Llaca I decided to climb Huarapasca. This 5420m peak is so close to the road it can be summited in a single push from the car without an overnight camp.
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| The Route |
Alex picked me up at my hostel at 2am and we were on the walk-in by 5am. The walk in is roughly an hour to the steepening snow slope. We crampon up and eventually get the rope out as the snow and ice hit 70°. Alex being the guide leads two pitches of 60m and belays of an ice thread and snow picket respectively.
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 | | 5am walk in |
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 | | Close to the ice |
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 | | Me ready for the steep bit |
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I enjoy front pointing on steep snow and ice (sustained 65 degree ice or Scottish grade II). From here we stash one rope and move together for the remainder of the route which consists of a snow ridge and plateau. Passing two false summits we eventually top out at 9am. The views in the early morning are amazing. The Cordillera Huayhuash visible on the horizon with its remote 6000ers.
Descending takes no time as we abseil off the in-situ ice threads. Rains came in the afternoon as per usual.
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 | | Alex leading off |
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 | | Ice Belay |
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 | | Me finishing the steep part |
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This summit is a great easy hit if in the Huascarán National Park. It's a doable objective independently or if you don't have gear or are traveling solo local guides guide the route regularly (shop around hard for a good deal). It goes without saying that a few days hiking in the mountains first is essential for acclimatisation. The effects of altitude here can be brutal.
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 | Ridge to a false summit
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 | | Me slogging |
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 | | Me ready to abseil |
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Hauraz is a Chamonix or Zermatt of Perú. A great base to explore the mountains from, with the world famous Cordillera Blanco and Cordillera Huayhuash on the doorstep. I would love to return.
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| Huayhuash in the distance |
