Coronation Street (E1 5b, 115m, Cheddar Gorge, England)

9.10.23

Coronation Street (E1 5b, 115m, Cheddar Gorge, England)

I have always thought Cheddar Gorge a miserable place to climb. The dark roadside buttresses in the depth of the gorge are as underwhelming as climbing can get. Short polished limestone with added road noise thrown in they have never appealed to me. The sunnier walls such as Heart Leaf Bluff, Prospect Tier, and Sunnyside Terrace all catch the sun at least, and do offer some decent routes away (to some degree) from the road. Still climbing at weekends in Cheddar is always a noisy affair as it is a well known spot for petrol heads and bikers to career through the gorge in their tuned up motors.

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For me though the attraction of Cheddar is the adventure climbs. Only accessible in winter a clutch of multi-pitch routes force their way up the north facing vegetated cliffs. The land owner forbids climbing these outside of the winter months for fear of liability (should a climber kick a rock down on some unsuspecting tourists car).

A winter shot of the South Side

One route has always been on the list - Coronation Street E1 5b, 115m is the classic trad route of the gorge and one very warm October weekend we headed there to bag the route before it got too cold.

Adventure Routes on Cheddar South. Topo

On the Saturday we decided to climb on Acid Rock as a warm up. Thor HVS 5b, 50m turned out to be a solid warm up for what was to come on Coronation Street. Pitch two was steep, burly and had some big strenuous moves. I really hoped tomorrows route was easier than this.

Pilar starts us off on Thor

Me fumbling for gear

Me on Pitch 2

Pilar on Pitch 2

After abbing down and feeling mildly intimidated by the climbing style we grab another couple of pitches near Sunset Buttress climbing Utopia HVS 4c, 50m. The route looks abysmal from the ground but the climbing is surprisingly clean of vegetation. I lead the first pitch which I hated. I had had my fill of 3D chimneys recently and I was too tired for this physical battle. Pilar leads the 30m second pitch. This is similar but longer and finishes on a pedestal in a great position. The sun had just come round to us too. There is a third pitch which although looked decent we didn't have time for (its awkward to get to too, being a bramble bashing walk away). So we abseil from the belay bolts down the route.

Pilar coming up Pitch 1

Pilar with Sunset Buttress

The final Chimney
Better than it looks

View from Sunset Buttress

After a crap nights sleep in the gorge (thanks petrol heads) we get up nice an early ready for our adventure.

Cheddar Topos

A successful descent

Pilar starts us off on the monster 45m first pitch. Its a bit vegetated but dry at least. I find it actually very good absorbing climbing. Several BASE jumpers fly past which adds to the entertainment (though it nearly ended badly for one or two as they span out of control whilst the canopy brushed the rock face!).

A bit of veg on this pitch

Pitch two is as expected. Hard and physical. The rock is mildly polished and the style very traditional. In other words laybacks, bridging, hand jamming, "udging" and general physical steep 3D climbing.

Me at Belay 1 - Too hot already

I finally find myself on the belay ledge sweating buckets. We have brought way too many clothes for this freakishly warm October day.

Me on P2 - 5B

Next up the Shield Traverse. Only 15m long this pitch looks friendly and fun from the belay. Its only when you look directly across at the traverse does the exposure really kick in. BASE jumpers are now whizzing past again. Great entertainment. The traverse is great fun - Only two small smears for foot holds, both of which are polished to a sheen. Hand holds are big however and the swinging move out left above the void feels somewhat urgent. The shield itself provides a welcome rest as you can literally swing your leg over and sit on it. Manoeuvring off of it was the most awkward move I ever done I think.

Another Jumper

The Shield

Safe on some rusty pegs

Pilar ready for the Shield

Hugging the Shield

The next pitch is very similar to pitch 2 however is slightly more sustained. It doesn't let up in its 20m and I climb it, perch myself on the column- the best position in the whole of the gorge- covered in sweat. Tough pitch but brilliant.

Exposure!

Nearly there now

We nearly go the wrong way on the final pitch. Nearly heading directly up the crack but luckily noticing a line of worn gear placements out to the right. This leads to an airy (and slightly slabby) exit into the late afternoon sun.

Top-out to sunshine

This fantastic route is a must do! Just don't underestimate it and don't expect an easy ride.