Pilar and I switched to Mountaineering mode for our summer climbing trip and our chosen playground was Grindelwald, famous for mountaineering in a region known as the roof of Europe.
We opted to drive hoping it would keep costs down (Switzerland is always heavy on the wallet). Getting a 20-year-old Renault Kangoo to Switzerland is an adventure in its own right. And doing it without air conditioning definitely a test of endurance in the middle of a major heat wave.
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| Arrival day checking out the north face |
Having some tissue damage to my right wrist I knew rock climbing would be minimal on this trip and we therefore focused on Mountaineering (at least one objective). It took a while to adjust to not being able to fall back on cragging and the first few days were spent working on the mountain fitness. Hiking and klettersteig kept us busy in the Grindelwald area until we shifted to the Engelhorner area.
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.jpeg) | | Me on the Rotstock |
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 | | Pilar on a hike to the Schrekhorn Hut |
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The klettersteig to the summit of the Swartzhorn (K3, 200m) turned out to be a little gem. We had it almost to ourselves surprisingly and though the actual Via Ferrata wasn't anything to boast about (just a couple of ladders) the summit was lovely and the positions actually quite impressive (for what is essentially just a touristy bit of fun)
Moving to the Engelhorner we stayed the night in the delightful Engelhorn hut and traversed the Simelistock. Klein Gross Simelistock Traverse (AD 4c)
 | | Approaching the hut |
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 | | The beginning |
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This great little outing traverses the Klien and Gross Simeler. Having only one working hand I wore comfy rock shoes though climbing this in stiff mountain boots is more appropriate. We left the hut at about 7am and worked out where the start was after some scrambling about. We then just followed our noses through an exposed ridge with a short rappel from the Klein (the small summit) and then onto the Gross (the larger summit). Some 4c moves (easy in sticky boots and bolted) leads to the summit.
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 | | Onthe Klien |
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 | | Descending the Klien |
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 | | Summit of the Gross |
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.jpeg) | | Me on a mid route Rappel |
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The descent is complex. Several rappels interspersed with down-scrambling. It takes us a solid 8h hut to hut though we had a very leisurely lunch on the descent and wanted to savour the route.
.jpeg) | | Looking down |
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.jpeg) | | The Exposed Gross Simeler |
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 | | One of the many descent Abs |
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 | | Celebratory Beer |
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Quality limestone all the way and a venue to come back to.
A weather window had opened for a potential ascent of the Mittellegi Ridge (D) on the Eiger. The Mittellegi Hut seems to be booked up solid when the weather is good, however Pilar managed to get us on the waiting list. A day later we got confirmation of a place and after resting for a day we left the north face campsite and embarked on our mission.
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| The Whole of the Mittellegi Integrale from the Campsite |
Logistics on the Mittellegi Hut Approach (AD) are as follows....
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Take the Eiger Express cable car to the Eiger north face station then catch the Jungfrau railway and get off at the Eismeer Station.
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Wander around the station baffled until the guard instructs you to walk down the platform past the barrier. Walk down the tunnels and steps until the exit hole where you can abseil or down climb to the ice
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Traverse the glacier (some objective danger)
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Climb the rock face for three pitches. Tricky in big boots but great fun.
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Continue up loose gravel and sketchy scree until you reach the hut precariously perched on the ridge.
 | | Tunnel to the exit hole |
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 | | Abbing out the hole |
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 | | An unusual train station exit |
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.jpeg) | | Some technical climbing |
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 | | Climbing above the glacier |
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.jpeg) | | In-situ Crevasse Bridge |
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.jpeg) | | Seriously chossy ground |
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 | | The hut in site |
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We arrived before other teams much earlier then required but at least we could relax for the afternoon.
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| Atmospheric conditions |
It appeared we were the only non-guided party in the hut and when the hut warden allocated breakfast slots we were at the back of the queue (5am).
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 | | Other teams arrived |
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.jpeg) | | Buzzing atmosphere |
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On the morning it was already twilight when we left and we had no need for head lamps. Temps were well below freezing however, the cardiovascular nature of ridge climbing meant that even in these temperatures we were wearing way too many cloths. Being at the back of the queue meant we didn't have the stress of fast guided teams snapping at our heals and we were alone for much of it given that most guides sped on ahead.
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| Cloudless skies |
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 | | Looking back |
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 | | Some fixed rope |
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 | | More Rope |
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 | | A rappel on route |
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The climb to the summit felt long. Exposed ridge climbing on limestone. crampon scratches show the way and it really is impossible to go off route. 200m of thick static route line the steeper climbing sections. This sounds like awful commercialisation of the mountain however the reality is that free climbing the rock would be too time consuming for most parties given you are climbing in stiff boots, possibly gloves and carrying a pack. Still I do wonder if simply bolting these sections sensibly would be a good middle ground allowing climbers to pull through (French free) on any tough moves that were too time consuming.
.jpeg) | | A team head |
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.jpeg) | | Me on lead |
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 | | Looking back at the whole ridge |
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.jpeg) | | Nearly there |
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The limestone is awful either side so sticking to the crest of the ridge gives more solid but exposed climbing. We pass one abseil from a pinnacle, and we briefly catch up with a team ahead at the final fixed ropes but just when you think you see the summit ridge you realise that it is another false summit. It seems to go on forever and finally we know we are nearly there when we pass some snow crests. We actually put on crampons as though the way is stepped-out it is so exposed (with a 1km fall to the Eismeer Glacier to our left). We summit at 11am. A great moment though less than half way on this route.
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 | | Exposed snow field |
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 | | Summit ridge |
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| Right, time to find the descent |
Next up the descent down the South Ridge and Eigerjoch (AD).
The South ridge of the Eiger is chossy and loose. Scrambling down is possible however you are forced to make several abseils. It takes time though on the whole quite straightforward. Now on the South Eigerjoch the rock changed to granite. This is better quality but the ridge seems to go on forever. We tackle the pinnacles. The first is great climbing. The second goes via a sketchy snow traverse. The third, by which time fatigue had really set in, passes through an icy squeeze chimney.
We were buoyed up when a guided group of Brits caught us up shortly before meeting the glacier below the Monch. This is an awesome end to the route. Sunglasses on, padding along the snow field below the Monch is highly memorable. We realised however that we weren't going to catch the last Junfraujoch train and as such we endured an uncomfortable night in the Monchjoch hut (a busy hut perched at 3.6km).
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 | | Finally the glacier |
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 | | The Monchjoch hut |
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 | | The walk out with Jungfrau behind |
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All in all an amazing excursion and the objective of the trip ticked.
The remainder of the holiday was spent with some slab climbing at Raterichsboden slabs (exceptional quality granite padding above the reservoir), some mellow bolt clipping at Gletscherschlucht (an atmospheric lower grade sport crag), and some more klettersteig.
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| Slab padding |
This one was a great outing to the Ostegg hut (Ostegghütte Via Ferrata (VF4B)). This beautiful unmanned alpine hut is the starting point for the Mittellegi Integrale - a mammoth ridge traverse that starts along the serious Hornli Ridge before joining the Mittellegi. A big outing. The via ferrata to the hut was a nice end to the trip. Whilst Klettersteigs (Via Ferrata) always feel like climbing for non-climbers they are great for getting up high quickly and experiencing serious exposure all without the hassle of ropes and gear.
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| Approaching the Ostegghutte with the Wetterhorn |
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| The Klettersteig to the Ostegghutte |
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| Klettersteig |
Like always we are itching to go back to Switzerland.
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Eiger North Face
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