East Buttress of El Cap (5.10b, 430m) & Middle Cathedral (5.9/A0, 335m)
Climbing the two East Buttresses. The one on El Cap of course being the most memorable (okay so its on the very edge of The Captain but it still impressed me).
East Buttress of El Capitan
Setting off from Camp 4 at about 6am, Simon (nice fella I met in Camp 4) and myself headed down to El Cap on foot. Being so early and there being no traffic we spot a family of bears in the road.
Cutting off the road and hiking up the slopping ramp that leads to El Capitan’s East Buttress we arrive finding ourselves in a queue of people. Simon suggests we climb Moratorium first rather than wait. I look at the guidebook and its 5.11b. I talk him out of it.
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| Bear family - seen on the approach |
Once on the route we block lead 5 pitches at a time. A 5.9 chimney starts us off. Followed by the crux pitch (short sequence of sustained moves). From there its a fun route of pitch after pitch of 5.5-5.9. We share the belays with other parties but it doesn’t distract from the day out – the weather is good as always and we are climbing El Cap!
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| Me fighting with the chimney pitch |
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The descent is via the Eastern Ledges which involves some sketchy abseils on in-situ ropes, some of which were past their best. Best push it to the back of your mind and descend as fast as possible.
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Pairing up with yet another fellow Brit in Camp 4 I looked for another objective. Mike -who had originally arrived in the Valley to aid solo Lurking Fear on El Cap – suggested East Buttress of Middle Cathedral (5.9, 335m). I jumped at the chance. Another long moderate Yosemite Free climb. Brilliant….
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