Climbing in Smith Rock, Oregon


Three days in Oregon sampling the delights of Smith Rock. "Smith" is a top quality volcanic outcrop that is situated in a weird almost desert-like clearing among the forested wilderness of Oregon.

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The easy walk in

Upon arriving the weather was bleak. Low pressure had bought a couple of days heavy rain. Fortunately volcanic basalt dries quickly and we were climbing by day two.

Classic Smith sport
The Monkey Face
The routes at Smith are mainly single pitch (though there are many longer routes like those on the iconic Monkey Face). The walls are peppered with both trad and sport climbs, the sport climbing on offer being welcome break from the three weeks of crack climbing in Yosemite.
We bagged a handful of climbs such as...

 Five Gallon Buckets 5.7 - as the name suggests, just massive holds
 Moonshine Dihedral 5.9 -  as the name suggests, a corner climb. Typical 5.9 Trad
 Moons of Pluto 5.10d  Amazing bolt clipping hugging an arete

 

Five Gallon Buckets 5.7

 

 Chain Reaction 5.12c

 

Andy leading Moonshine Dihedral 5.9

 

Moonshine Dihedral 5.9 and Chain Reaction 5.12c

Crack climbing is never far away though in the American west and the nearby lower gorge  has a wealth of columnar basalt providing some steep hard crack climbs!  

 

Cruel Sister 5.10 - Brutal splitter

 

Basalt columns
 
Me down by the river surrounded by Basalt
 
Our road trip continued this time heading south to Joshua Tree but not before stopping off at Lovers Leap to climb a couple of the local classics...The Line (5.9, 120m)  and The Bear's Reach (5.7, 110m)   
 
 
Walking up to Lover Leap
 
 
Andy leading off on the classic Bears Reach