I was lucky enough to spend a month in the resort of Ton Sai, Railey in Thailand over the Xmas period.
Undoubtedly a unique sport climbing venue, Ton Sai mixes good climbing with a relaxed vibe. Living simply in cheap beach huts, climbing by day, relaxing by night and eating the cheap street food.
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| Kao San Road - Bedlam |
However a trip to Ton Sai is not possible without a visit to the noisy, chaotic, and sweaty metropolis that is Bangkok. Two days on the Kao San Road is easily enough to get your cultural enrichment before heading off to sunny paradise. All you need to know about Bangkok is 1) don’t get in a tuk-tuk (as they will try to take you to their mates suit shop) 2) don’t trust the travel agents (they’ll probably try and fleece you too), 3) don’t trust anybody really. Okay the last one is not true and I am being harsh but I really didn't like the place. It was the climbing that I came for after all.
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On finally getting to Ton Sai book yourself a beach hut (crazy expensive at least 50p per night) , find someone to climb with (if you need to), and go and explore the crags.
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 | 50p per night cabin.
Home for a month
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 | Luxury
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 | | Local wildlife |
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As a climbing venue I can honestly say its quite average on a global scale. Whilst if offers winter sport climbing the climate is unbearably humid and some people (myself included) found that the humidity sapped the motivation and made the climbing hard (sweating all over routes actually puts the grade up). However as an experience I highly rate it. Such a unique environment to spend a month.
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 | | Me on Last Route In Minnesota- 6C |
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 | | Climbing in a cave |
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The limestone is peppered with holes and tuffas perfect for threads. The bolts I found to be in reasonable state though there was of course a lot of rusty bolts that need to be replaced. I dabbled on some multi-pitch routes where the positions and views were great (like Big Wave, 6b, 110m)...
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 | | At a sweaty belay on Big Wave 6B |
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 | | Looking down Big Wave |
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 | | Tropical multi-pitching |
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Some of the routes are proper adventurous affairs, climbing straight out of a canoe on an isolated sea stack or climbing solo above the beautiful Andaman Sea. Deep Water Soloing on the tuffa limestone above the ocean here is a wild experience. Especially the jump!
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 | | Me stepping on to a tuffa |
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 | | Painful hitting water from this high |
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 | | Ao Pnang tower |
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The sport climbing on the beaches and in the tropical forests is steep and physical. Not a good combination given the extreme humidity. Humanality, 110m (6B+) high above Ton Sai beach is a moderately graded classic however. 4 or 5 pitches of steep exposure. The crux pitch involves stepping out on to a tuffa with about 100m below your feet. Super exposed and exciting.
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 | | Views over the beach |
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 | | The exposed step |
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 | | Another sweaty belay |
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