Incredible Hand Crack (5.10c, 20m), Indian Creek, Utah


Climbing at the spiritual home of the splitter crack. Indian Creek!

After our ascent of Castleton Tower it was time to head to another of Utah’s iconic climbing venues. Indian Creek.


Classic 5.9 splitter

Our Rack!
The Creek is known for perfect cracks running up pristine blank walls leaving no options to the climber other than hand and foot jams. No protection is available other than multiple cams, usually of the same size (a rack of 8 no3 Camelots is a typical rack for some routes).
It seems routes are graded depending on the width of the crack….Hands=5.10, Fingers=5.11, Of Width cracks= 5.12.  The routes are brutal on the arms and good crack technique is learnt here fast.
 
 

 

Luxury Liner 5.10, a classic

 

My climbing partner on Pitch 1 of Wild work of Fire

I particularly enjoyed Incredible Hand Crack (about UK E2, 20m). I had to work up the courage  to jump on the route as though protection couldn’t be better, it looked super physical and sustained (and overhanging). So glad I did, as its just hand over hand jamming up a perfect line...

 

Me starting Incredible Hand Crack

 

Getting stuck in

Perfect Sandstone

Me fighting with the hand jams

Crack climbing here is an all body workout leaving you spent after just a couple of routes (well at least for a first time punter like myself). But the lines are incredible and one day just wasn’t enough in undoubtedly one of the worlds most amazing climbing destinations.

The Creek