The prospect of climbing perfect Quartzite in the African wilds yet again lured Pilar and I back to Tafrout.
This trip was with the Wessex MC and followed the previous years format - a few days in the Kasbar followed by a few days in The hotel in Tafraout. The week started quite leisurely with a moderate cragging at Anammer Crag (roadside outcrops) and accent on
Rainbow Buttress.
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 | | Descending a pinnacle at Anammer |
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 | Craggng at Anammer
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At Rainbow Buttress we climbed Orange Rocket (VS 4c, 4 pitches). It turned out to be easier than anticipated and a less rewarding day than hoped. Still a nice chilled start to the week.
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 | | Orange Rocket - Somewhat over graded at VS |
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 | | Pilar Topping out on Orange Rocket VS (very low in the grade) |
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 | | Pilar and Chicken on the top of Rainbow Buttress |
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We enjoyed an ascent of
Sun Ribbon Arete (HS, 500m) a long climb that was more of a scramble but took us up to the "Bunny Ears" at Robin Hood Rocks (such a picturesque crag). A fun outing of about 500m and great to do as a group its has some interesting terrain to negotiate. That said the exact line is a bit contrived and whilst its nice to do a long route it always feels escapable. A low commitment day out.
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 | | The Bunny Ears at Robin Hood Rocks |
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 | The exposed ridge section
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 | | Pilar approaching the ears |
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 | | Pilar and Steve moving fast to the summit |
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The sort of vegetation you are expected to
climb though in Morocco. Ouch! |
The best crag of the trip was Anergui Upper which looms over the little Village of Anergui like a Dolomite wall. It's quite impressive and the drive to Anergui itself is a memorable one. 30 minutes of twisty single track with huge drop offs and the town itself a ghost town (we figured holiday homes for visiting city dwellers).
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| The view from Annergui |
We climbed Eagles Perch (HVS 5a, 150m). A brilliant little climb of about 4 pitches the crux being the first. It didn't look like much but the groove proved much steeper than appearances suggested. With some 3D climbing and some impromptu belays.
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 | | Anergui Upper Crag- Brilliant |
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 | | Pilar following pitch 2 |
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 | | Pitch 3 - perfect rock |
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The remaining pitches were easier but in some great positions and the quartzite giving natural belays and protection.
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 | Pilar taking us to the ledge
(the top)
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 | Pilar finishing off Eagles Perch -
a long pitch of easy climbing
on great rock |
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We spent more days cragging at Robin Hood Rocks (always great) and Tizgut.......
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 | Pilar on Down and Out- E15b
at Robin Hood
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 | Day of the Tentacle HVS
at Tizgut
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We even sampled the Granite on the final day. Here we messed around on a couple of bolted slabs which exceeded my expectations. We climbed
Bolero (F5c, 25m) and
Nutcracker (F5c, 25m). Both pristine friction climbing and with some runouts typical of this style of slab climbing.
The granite bowl definitely needs further attention on the next trip.
Such an idyllic setting..
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 | | Evening light on Beard of Zeus HVS- Robin Hood Rocks |
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 | | Pilar padding up a granite slab |
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 | | Painted rocks - Pointless vandalism in the beautiful surroundings |
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