The Eagle's Perch (HVS 5a, 150m), Anti Atlas, Morocco
The prospect of climbing perfect Quartzite in the African wilds yet again lured Pilar and I back to Tafrout.
This trip was with the Wessex MC and followed the previous years format - a few days in the Kasbar followed by a few days in The hotel in Tafraout. The week started quite leisurely with a moderate cragging at Anammer Crag (roadside outcrops) and accent on Rainbow Buttress.
Anammer Crag was a very relaxed first day and with temperatures were on the high side probably a poor choice as most of it is south facing. However, steep jug pulling on routes like Jericho (VS,4c) to the top of a small pinnacle were lots of fun (if a little too relaxed).
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At Rainbow Buttress we climbed Orange Rocket (VS 4c, 4 pitches). It turned out to be easier than anticipated and a less rewarding day than hoped. Still a nice chilled start to the week.
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We enjoyed an ascent of Sun Ribbon Arete (HS, 500m) a long climb that was more of a scramble but took us up to the "Bunny Ears" at Robin Hood Rocks (such a picturesque crag). A fun outing of about 500m and great to do as a group its has some interesting terrain to negotiate. That said the exact line is a bit contrived and whilst its nice to do a long route it always feels escapable. A low commitment day out.
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| The sort of vegetation you are expected to climb though in Morocco. Ouch! |
The best crag of the trip was Anergui Upper which looms over the little Village of Anergui like a Dolomite wall. It is quite impressive and the drive to Anergui itself is a memorable one. 30 minutes of twisty single track with huge drop offs and the town itself a ghost town (we figured holiday homes for visiting city dwellers).
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| The view from Annergui |
We climbed Eagles Perch (HVS 5a, 150m). A brilliant little climb of about 4 pitches the crux being the first. It didn't look like much but the groove proved much steeper than appearances suggested. With some 3D climbing and some impromptu belays.
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The remaining pitches were easier but in some great positions and the quartzite giving natural belays and protection.
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We spent more days cragging at Robin Hood Rocks which is always great. However, it is a sun trap and can become unbearably hot. Despite this we managed to knock out the following short cragging routes...
Above and Beyond E2 5c - Short and fierce
Down and Out E1 5a - Bold arete climbing.
By the Beard of Zeus HVS 5a, 2 pitches - A favorite that I've done before. A Superb traverse pitch
The Face that Launched a Thousand Ships VS 4b - decent VS climbing.
Another cragging day followed at the hot but very decent Tizgut Gorge, where the heat got the better of me, and I only managed one route Day of the Tentacle (HVS 5b, 2 pitches)
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Such an idyllic setting..
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Morocco for us is a wonderful winter getaway. And on this trip, although we never really got going climbing-wise (it was a little too hot in honesty, and the group dynamic with limited cars meant there was a lot of compromise as to were to climb) we once again fell in love with this quartzite wonderland.