Moonraker gets a good write up. Often billed as the best of its grade in the country, Pilar and I went to find out what all the fuss was about.
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An early low tide window meant we pulled up at Berry Head car park before 8am. The walk in - literally only 2 minutes - takes us to the gearing up ledges. We are the only people here which is great (later in the day this area is swamped with deep water soloists as its sunny and a bank holiday), and we wait for 10 minutes for the tide to go out further. Eventually we down-climb the steep approach (about 5m of V Diff) and wait in the Great Cave, a huge cavern with some impressive steep (an hard) routes on.
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 | | The down climb |
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 | A party of soloists below the route
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A handful of soloists come past us as we wait. Not carrying any gear they are confident to traverse the cave on a higher line of holds 3m above the water. We chose not to do this - carrying ropes and a rack the greasy early morning holds could make it hard (F6a+ with Consequences of a fall pretty dire). Eventually we get tired of waiting and are forced to get wet feet as we traverse low level round to the belay, a hanging stance in a great position out on the wall. The face is sheltered from all but easterly winds and the back drop of the Great Cave, the Rainbow Bridge wall is awesome. So far its all fun.
 | | The great cave |
|  | | Pilar on the traverse |
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The first pitch is wildly steep but with so many jugs to haul on it is about as enjoyable to climb on as it gets. Good rope management is required (extended runners) as the pitch weaves its way up the cliff. Some seepage and a moment of being blinded by the sun give me some pause for thought but generally I find the climbing steady and good fun.
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| Me pitch 1 |
Pilar took pitch two. Fortunately this was clean of guano as apparently early in the season it can reek. A diagonal traverse here takes us to the final pitch,
|  | Pitch 2
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|  | Following Pitch 2
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The final crack system provides benchmark HVS laybacking with excellent protection straight to the top. Topping out is a weird experience - bright sunlight with people everywhere sunbathing and milling around.
|  | | The Final Corner |
|  | The Top Out
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We had no time to play on the DWS traverses unfortunately as I had to meet family. Was the route as good as advertised? We think it was. I feel it was as good as DOWH at Gogarth. Though both routes have superb back drops and a dramatic sea cliff architecture. Top morning out!
