A trip to northern Spain to climb on the conglomerate spires dotted around the southern Pyrenees.
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We stayed at the Refugio in Riglos a stones throw from the huge walls. The place was very quiet and we were lucky to have all our climbs to ourselves with only Bearded Vultures as company.
|  | | Sunset over Rueba |
|  | Reading the guide
at the Refugio |
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We started the week at Pena Rueba. Rueba offers multi-pitch routes up to nearly 400m and is only a 15 minute drive from Riglos. It has the benefit of being generally less steep and of a more compact conglomerate than Riglos and therefore offers a friendlier climbing style with exceptional bolting. Whilst lack of exposure on some of the routes and the generic feeling of many of the pitches means it wont get the pulse racing like Riglos, we figured it would be a good place to warm up.
|  | | The walk in to Rueba |
|  | | The South Face |
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We climbed
Dos Diablos en el Corazon (5c, 220m). A pleasant day out though coming down the via ferrata descent was exhausting. Later in the week we climbed
Bruno Gaspar (6b, 220m). This route was much more interesting with an unusual chimney to start and a steepening on the last three pitches giving vertical exposed climbing with wild hanging stances. Again the descent was a pain in the arse - we vowed to abseil if we came back to this face.
|
 | | Me on Day 1 |
|  | | Pilar day 1 |
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|  | | Bruno Gaspar Pitch 1 |
|  | | Looking down the steep pitches of Bruno |
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Our first route at Riglos
Espolón del Adamelo (6a, 305m) took us to the top of El Pison, an immense towering monolith that appears to be made of mud. Climbing the sloping ramp of Macizo takes us up to the col were we join
Via Normal to the summit of the Pison. The climbing on the whole was moderate with the occasional panza (bulge) to overcome. Whilst this route does have some choss, for the most part the huge jugs seem glued solid. This gives great steep climbing on massive holds.
|  | | Pilar on Pitch 1 |
|  | A hot belay
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We had a minor mission on the decent as we chose to abseil down the northern side in 4 long abseils, however our rope twisted up and wouldn't pull on the 2nd abseil. Thankfully the two old guys, descending a route to our left, passed me a Petzl Shunt and I ascended 50m back to the anchor to sort out the mess!
|  | The first abseil from the summit
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|  | | The problematic descent |
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An easier day followed by climbing in the outer "Mallos". We climbed the perfectly formed needle Aguja Roja via the
Normal Direct (6a, 100m). Outstanding steep climbing up what looks like choss, but is in fact perfect conglomerate. The route was completely in the shade which was welcome as temperatures were hitting 30°. We then bagged a route on Mallos de Colorado, another outlier. These outer towers are a good choice for a shorter day.
|  | | The Red Needle |
|  | | Pilar on rappel |
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Our last route at Riglos was up the huge overhanging face of La Visura. Well our route
Moskitos (6b, 250m) was actually more on the side. We had an early start in order to beat the sun to the face and spent the first couple of hours in the cool shade. The climbing was superb - steep moves on massive holds following a corner system. The bolting seemed sparse (certainly in comparison to Rueba) but if anything this added to the exposure.
|  | Me on an early pitch
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|  | Great exposure
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A brilliant traverse pitch on pitch 5 takes you out over some amazing terrain. Pilar followed this and arrived at the belay looking distinctly unwell. She also looked very worried as she was dizzy and threatening to faint at any moment. We don't know if it was food poisoning or a sugar low but we sat on the belay (known as the Throne) and considered our options. Apparently you can abseil from this point down the face. The sun had now come round and we were beginning to sweat.
|  | | Pilar following |
|  | Pilar approaching the Throne
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We had to press on. Pilar ate some peanuts which seemed to help and I set out on the crux traverse. The route is polished to a sheen. For the most part this doesn't matter as the climbing is steady but on the crux and in full sunshine it felt desperate. The crux involves traversing leftwards and negotiating three "panzas", the third of which I found impossible. Getting pumped and getting nowhere I pull on the quick draw. I expect to see another bolt above in order to pull on. However it seems miles away and in desperation I slap for something wildly. The hold is polished and I try to lower to the previous draw to grab but I'm off!
|  | Pilar rests before the crux
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|  | | Pitch 1 on the Visor |
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Pilar did catch me thankfully. Though in my desperation to grab the draw I badly burnt my forearm in the process on the rope. Still after a good breather I made it to the belay. As did Pilar and we finished the route to be rewarded with the most amazing walk down among the towers. Superb...
|  | Great views with Rueba behind
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|  | | The Northern Cirque |
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OrdesaWe finished up our trip in Ordesa. This amazing canyon has some seriously adventurous trad climbing. We vowed to return and on this trip we settled for some hiking as the injury to my forearm was worse than originally thought and it needed medical treatment.....
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| Ouch!!!!!!! |
We did enjoy a local Via Ferrata we found nearby in Foradada del Toscar(K4) Breath-taking..
|  | | via ferrata |
|  | Ordesa simply amazing!
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