Pembroke may not be the perfect destination for an Easter get away. Firstly, early season bird bans are still in place. Furthermore, Atlantic storms can still batter the cost bringing huge swells and violent seas.
Still, by straying from the main honeypot crags in the St Govan's area, a highly adventurous time in remote beautiful stretches of this wild and dramatic coastline can be found.
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Easter Bank hol 2022- Range West
In order to access the western section of the Castlemartin Ranges punters must attend one of several briefings held at Camp Merrion. Being a military artillery range unexploded ordnance can be found littered around the place. Common sense dictates that one steer clear of these and the MOD have a clear set of rules that must be followed.
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 | | The briefing |
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 | | Camp Merrion |
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We attended the briefing on a wet drizzly Good Friday. Over 120 people were there too (to our surprise). Passes are given to climbers, fishermen and surfers and last for the year.
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| The Green Bridge Of Wales |
After the briefing and a rainy bimble around Pembroke tea shops we decided we would try and go climbing as the rain had eased. We climbed (or rather traversed), Rainbow Bridge (53m, Severe). This unusual climb essentially traverses a ledge in two pitches passing through wild, exposed positions. The climbing is very easy, but it feels like a fun little adventure. Worth doing just for giggles.
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 | Wild positions
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 | Belay Ledge
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 | Me following
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 | | Me starting Pitch 1 |
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The next day we headed for Strata Walls. With pitches up to 40m on stratered limestone it's an awesome cliff. We start the walk in from the Gupton Gate entrance to the range. This is a beautiful approach along a remote beach. Huge swells give great surf. Spent ammunition is littered around the sand dunes and we stay between the white posts and the sea (as obligated).
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 | | Avoid this sort of thing |
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 | | Incredible approach walk |
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Upon arrival the zawn of Strata Walls looks uninviting and scary. A huge free hanging abseil approach and what looks like soaking wet rock at the bottom means abseiling in would be very committing. However, a glimmer of sunshine and another team arriving things look a little more inviting, so we drop in and Pilar leads Bird On A Wire (VS 4c, 35m). This classic is a good introduction to the crag with big holds and is actually less step than it appears from above.
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 | Me dropping in.
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 | | The Wet pitch 1 |
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I then go for
Golden Eagle (E1 5b, 35m). A stunning line up the arete of a large wall it has massive holds, is slightly overhanging, and is sustained until the top. Protection is also good with cams in the horizontal breaks. I loved this route. Well worth the walk in.
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 | | Me on Golden Eagle - Steep! |
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 | | Abbing back in with Golden Wall behind |
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Range West being so exposed to the tides has a very small window to climb. The sea (with quite a swell) was now starting to hit the rocks. We shift the abseil rope and drop in to climb
Night Riders (HVS 5a, 33m) I climb extra fast on this jug fest of a climb, not even putting much protection in as the climbing, though steep, is so intuitive. Pilar just escaped dry as pounding waves were now close to the belay ledge. Great to squeeze this route in.
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 | | Fast Climbing |
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 | | The walk - part of the experience |
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 | | Stunning evening |
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Though the following day the wind had really picked up, the rain held off, so we decided to do the one hour walk back in from the Gupton Gate. This time our crag was Western Walls. The sea had other ideas however and the raging Atlantic was battering the walls despite being a low tide. It seems climbing at range West takes some patience and good timing.
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 | | Not a climbing day! |
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 | | Best don't push the button |
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On the Bank Holiday Monday Mount Sion East provided some accessible friendly routes before heading home. Here the climbs are set well above the sea and are so short they are probably best described as "micro routes". It fitted perfectly before out slog home. Lovely
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 | | Convenience cragging |
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 | | Good access cragging. |
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