Pembroke: Avoiding the Crowds

  

Pembroke may not be the perfect destination for an Easter get away. Firstly, early season bird bans are still in place. Furthermore, Atlantic storms can still batter the cost bringing huge swells and violent seas.

Still, by straying from the main honeypot crags in the St Govan's area, a highly adventurous time in remote beautiful stretches of this wild and dramatic coastline can be found.

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Easter Bank hol 2022- Range West

In order to access the western section of the Castlemartin ranges punters must attend one of several briefings held at Camp Merrion. Being a military artillery range unexploded ordnance can be found littered around the place. Common sense dictates that one steer clear of these and the MOD have a clear set of rules that must be followed.

 

The briefing

 

Camp Merrion

We attended the briefing on a wet drizzly Good Friday. Over 120 people were there too (to our surprise). Passes are given to climbers, fishermen and surfers and last for the year.

The Green Bridge Of Wales

After the briefing and a rainy bimble around Pembroke tea shops we decided we would try and go climbing as the rain had eased. We climbed (or rather traversed), Rainbow Bridge (53m, Severe). This unusual climb essentially traverses a ledge in two pitches passing through wild, exposed positions. The climbing is very easy, but it feels like a fun little adventure. Worth doing just for giggles.

 

Wild positions

 

Belay Ledge

 

Me following

 

Me starting Pitch 1

The next day we headed for Strata Walls. With pitches up to 40m on stratered limestone it's an awesome cliff. We start the walk in from the Gupton Gate entrance to the range. This is a beautiful approach along a remote beach. Huge swells give great surf. Spent ammunition is littered around the sand dunes and we stay between the white posts and the sea (as obligated).

 

Avoid this sort of thing

 

Incredible approach walk

Upon arrival the zawn of Strata Walls looks uninviting and scary. A huge free hanging abseil approach and what looks like soaking wet rock at the bottom means abseiling in would be very committing. However, a glimmer of sunshine and another team arriving things look a little more inviting, so we drop in and Pilar leads Bird On A Wire (VS 4c, 35m). This classic is a good introduction to the crag with big holds and is actually less step than it appears from above. 


Me dropping in.


 

The Wet pitch 1

I then go for Golden Eagle (E1 5b, 35m). A stunning line up the arete of a large wall it has massive holds, is slightly overhanging, and is sustained until the top. Protection is also good with cams in the horizontal breaks. I loved this route. Well worth the walk in.

 

Me on Golden Eagle - Steep!

 


Abbing back in with Golden Wall behind

Range West being so exposed to the tides has a very small window to climb. The sea (with quite a swell) was now starting to hit the rocks. We shift the abseil rope and drop in to climb Night Riders (HVS 5a, 33m) I climb extra fast on this jug fest of a climb, not even putting much protection in as the climbing, though steep, is so intuitive. Pilar just escaped dry as pounding waves were now close to the belay ledge. Great to squeeze this route in.

 

Fast Climbing

 

The walk - part of the experience

 

Stunning evening

Though the following day the wind had really picked up, the rain held off, so we decided to do the one hour walk back in from the Gupton Gate. This time our crag was Western Walls. The sea had other ideas however and the raging Atlantic was battering the walls despite being a low tide. It seems climbing at range West takes some patience and good timing.

 

Not a climbing day!

 

Best dont push the button

 Mount Sion East provided some really accessible friendly routes on the Monday before heading home.

 

Convenience cragging

 



Good access cragging.

May Bank Holiday

Heading back to Pembroke we decided to head to the Northern part of the Peninsular. Here slabby sandstone routes are a real contrast to the steep limestone of the southern areas. Crag Y Barcud provided a day of trad climbing in a friendly setting.

 

Pilar warming up

 

Me on an E2

 


Some thin moves

The awkward Beyond the Azimuth

 

Routes climbed....
Beeline, E1 5b, 18m (Technical slab climbing)
Starling by the Seaside, E2 5b, 18m (slab climbing. Slightly bold but good positive edges)
Metamorphosis, HS 4b, 18m (Well protected warm up)
Beyond the Azimuth, E1 5b, 20m (Hard! Awkward diagonal crack with great gear)

After the usual bank holiday day of rain (where Pilar did manage to lead the classic slab route of The Amorican (VS, 27m), we head to the Quartz Grabbro of St David Head. 

The Amorican

With the look and feel of granite the cliffs here are beautiful. Zawns, promontories and caves line the cost with rugged hills and outcrops as a backdrop. We jump on the main objective Barad (E1 5b, 80m) After so much rain and with its North facing aspect, the route was soaked. Pitch one traverses in 25m and had a tough move off the ledge followed my easier rambling. The crux pitch in wet conditions was a real struggle. Awkward 3D climbing a real contrast to the linear face climbing of Friday. Protection luckily excellent. We followed the route with an accent of Twinkler (HVS 5A, 60m) Another fun line taking a logical line through the overlapping grooves.

 

Pilar setting off

 

Looking back at the wet crux pitch

 

Steep wet traversing

 

Twinkler HVS


For me Pembroke rates as some of the best trad climbing in England and Wales. From Lydstep to Western Walls, coupled with and the Northern Peninsular there is just so much rock climbing and so much variety. Lots of quantity rock and buckets of adventure.

St David's Head

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