Following a successful Easter trip we decide to head back to Pembroke but this time head to the Northern part of the Peninsular. Here slabby sandstone routes are a real contrast to the steep limestone of the southern areas. On day one Crag Y Barcud provided a day of trad climbing in a friendly setting...
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 | | Pilar warming up |
|  | | Me on an E2 |
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 | | Some thin moves |
|  | | The awkward Beyond the Azimuth |
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Routes climbed....
Beeline, E1 5b, 18m (Technical slab climbing)
Starling by the Seaside, E2 5b, 18m (slab climbing. Slightly bold but good positive edges)
Metamorphosis, HS 4b, 18m (Well protected warm up)
Beyond the Azimuth, E1 5b, 20m (Hard! Awkward diagonal crack with great gear)
We had the usual bank holiday day of rain where Pilar did manage to lead the classic slab route of The Amorican (VS, 27m). Great to get this done just after the rain and with the tide only just allowing acces to the base.
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| The Amorican |
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| Beautifully coloured slabs |
We head to the Quartz Grabbro of St David's Head the next day. With the look and feel of granite the cliffs here are beautiful. Zawns, promontories and caves line the cost with rugged hills and outcrops as a backdrop. We jump on the main objective Barad (E1 5b, 80m) After so much rain and with its North facing aspect, the route was soaked. Pitch one traverses in 25m and had a tough move off the ledge followed my easier rambling. The crux pitch, a rising traverse, in wet conditions was a real struggle. Bing awkward 3D climbing it was a real contrast to the linear face climbing of Friday. Protection luckily excellent. We followed the route with an accent of Twinkler (HVS 5A, 60m). Another fun line taking a logical line through the overlapping grooves.
 | | Pilar setting off |
|  | | Looking back at the wet crux pitch |
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 | | Steep wet traversing |
|  | | Twinkler HVS |
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For me Pembroke rates as some of the best trad climbing in England and Wales. From Lydstep to Western Walls, coupled with and the Northern Peninsular there is just so much rock climbing and so much variety. Lots of quantity rock and buckets of adventure.
