Cham is famous for the Mont Blanc massif. This high alpine world of rock, snow and ice is a playground for the world's elite alpinists.
However, this hostile environment has been somewhat tamed thanks to cable cars, mountain huts, paid guides, and a multitude of guidebooks - all helping give the armchair mountaineer or weekend warrior access to this harsh world. In addition to the high peaks and glaciers, subalpine playgrounds of the Plan d'el Aiguille, Aiguille Rouge and Vallorcine give multipitch rock climbing, perfect for developing alpine skills for use up high. If that's not enough the valley sport climbing is excellent and the town itself has great restaurants and shops. It's a fantastic holiday destination!
 | | Overlooking the Cham Valley |
|
 | | The Mer De Glace |
|
 | | A typical early morning |
|
 | | Our Campsite |
|
Our first day was spent on the Traversée des Crochues (PD+ 4a, 500m). We thought a good easy warm up for the mountain legs. But what should have been a short morning turned out to be a full day thanks to the hordes of guides taking their clients out on the final Sunday of the season. We had to wait in line to start the route and really should have solo climbed past (it's easy climbing so ropes are barely needed). However, waiting in line we got to know some other climbers which was nice, and in the end the route turned out to be good practice for roped moving together and climbing in stiff boots (not something we do much in the UK). This practice helped later in the week. The long walk back to the Index chairlift was a slog!
 | | Insane queuing! |
|
 | | Some great positions |
|
 | | Pilar early on |
|
 | | Nearing the end |
|
The next day was our first proper day out on the Chapelle de la Gliere (D+ 6a, 425m). Weaving up a twisting ridge this was a great outing. Again, this route started from the Index Chairlift. We were first on the route and, bar a couple of simul-climbing Frenchies, stayed well ahead of the other parties. The route is climbed in 13 pitches with a couple being very easy and as such we moved together for these (simul-climbed). There is in-situ protection where needed though easier sections have no fixed gear and belays can be set up with slings if required. The final pitch up an aesthetic needle is typical of the Aiguille Rouge. This route is typical of the Rouge being great for training in Alpine skills (efficiently moving from modes of travel....abseiling to simul-climbing to pitching etc).
 | | Pilar starts us off |
|
 | | Typical ridge positions |
|
 | | Making progress |
|
 | | The famous shot |
|
 | | A shot of me with Mont Blanc |
|
 | | Nearing the end |
|
We had a couple of easy days meeting friends and climbing some multi-pitch sport routes (like
Frison-Roche TD 6a, 195m on the brilliant Brevent) and a chilled morning at the beautiful Vallorcine.
 | Walking into Vallorcine
|
|
 | | Looking down a Vallorcine pitch |
|
The Brevent is an impressive cliff overlooking Chamonix that is accessible from two cable cars. Views of Mont Blanc are spectacular and the sport routes span the grades from 6A upwards. A wingsuit whizzed passed me whilst climbing. Scared me to death!
|
 | What a walk in
|
|
 | Pitch 2
|
|
|
 | Great positions
|
|
 | | The final corner |
|
|
 | Me on the fantastic final pitch
|
|
 | | As good as it gets |
|
The following day a cold snap meant we bailed off the super classic Papillon Arete (D+ 6a, 400m). Having walked in in thick cloud we found ourselves cold and damp (and a bit lost) near the beginning. Finding some bolts we decided to climb a couple of pitches (on damp rock) however abseiled down soon after as we knew we were in the wrong place (the route shouldn't have any in-situ bolts). The approach is actually quite arduous scrambling over a steep boulder field. We made the decision to abandon ship as it was getting late and we really didn't want an epic. The cloud got worse later in the day and temperatures didn't pick up. Good decision.
Frustratingly this super classic ridge climb will have to wait until next time.
 | Moody looking cliffs
|
|
 | | A brief clearing |
|
 | Abseiling off in cold conditions
|
|
 | | Sadly walking down without the tick |
|
Eventually we headed up to the Vallee Blanch. Taking 3 cable cars over to the Torino hut in Italy (in itself a worthwhile experience though not cheap at over €100). From here we traversed
Aiguille d'Entrèves (AD- 4c, 200m) . This little ridge is a relative short glacier walk from the Torino hut (1 hour), has amazing, exposed positions and is a brilliant little outing in which we were back by early afternoon. The glacier this year was extremely dry. The crevasses were gaping wide and bergschrunds surrounding any rock faces were much bigger than usual. Being late in the season this was expected, however, this year conditions for snow ice and mixed climbing were exceptionally poor. The sound of rock fall was consistent and our original objective, the Arete de Cosmique, had suffered big rock falls and appeared to be crumbling consistently. The Entreves was a decent alternative for us.
The approach. Picturesque but a lot of weaving about between crevasses.....
 | | Glacier Travel |
|
 | | The incredible South Face of Tacul behind |
|
 | | Me admiring the view |
|
 | | Our original objective -looking dry, loose and uninviting |
|
 | | Snow bridge |
|
 | | Pilar on a makeshift bridge |
|
The Ridge was a great experience with ourselves out in front and a guided party closely behind......
 | | Me and a team behind |
|
 | | The photo op of the ridge |
|
 | | Panoramic Views |
|
 | | The Entreves as seen on the approach |
|
 | | Pilar down climbing |
|
 | | Bottle neck on a pinnacle |
|
The early morning up on the glacier was something quite special....
 |
| Views of the Dent du Geant in early morning light |
 |
| Pilar with the whole of the valley trailing off behind |
The following day, now back in the valley, we headed for the
Traverse of the Perrons (AD 4a, 450m). Not having a hire car (Cham is expensive enough) we had to take two trains and then hitchhike up the hill to the Emosson Dam. From here a back breaking slog uphill takes us to the ridge. On the crest we find some of the best ridge climbing we have done. We moved fast, simul-climbing the whole way. The route has three abseils along the way as you descend from each of the three dramatic towers. And the great climbing just keeps coming along its whole length. With a long decent and walk out you really must keep moving in order to keep to guidebook time (which is very fast).
 | | Roped Scrambling |
|
 | | Pilar on a summit |
|
 | | Preparing for an abseil |
|
 | | Abbing of a summit |
|
|
 | | Looking at the Reservoir |
|
 | | The final summit |
|
We spent a day sport climbing (and sheltering from the rain) before bagging another multipitch route. The season very much coming to a close and the only lift in operation being the Planpraz we opted for
Cocher-cochon (TD- 6a, 250m). This convoluted route heads up buttress and ridges before heading up an aesthetic needle to an impressive summit. The weather was a bit moody and we had whole place to ourselves which added to the adventure. The route feels designed as a training route for higher mountains, with sections of moving together, an abseil en-route and some harder pitches. The final pitch (the pitch of the route) was a character building experience. High and exposed with swirling clouds I found myself mildly terrified. Completely unwarranted as the route is bolted and quite safe. However, in my comfy rock shoes and carrying a spare rope it felt hard! This spare rope by the way, was completely unnecessary. We carried it incase the weather deteriorated and we would have more bail out options. The route however has multiple escape points so carrying this rope was a pointless hindrance). I wibble and shake my way up the 6a pitch in what now feels like a proper high alpine rock route, finally summiting in atmospheric conditions and we make a short abseil and head down. The last climbing route of the trip but a good one.
 | | Pilar on lead with the Cocher in the distance |
|
 | | The final pinnacle getting closer |
|
 | | Nearing the end with clouds rolling in |
|
 | | On the final arete. Exposed!! |
|
 | | Me asking for advice :) |
|
 | | The top out. Bleak |
|
We spent the final cold day walking up near the Mer de Glace savoring the spectacular scenery before we headed home.
 |
| Taking in the final views |
Cham has something for everyone. Keeping the cost down is crucial as accommodation, car hire and lift passes seem to be extortionate here. For cost saving and flexibility camping (in the busy, cramped but comfortable town sites) is a good option. Car hire is not necessary as for the most part you will only need to get to the lift stations. All of which are reachable by the public bus (which is free!) A superb location for a couple of weeks of cragging, bouldering, walking, or alpine mountaineering!
