Benny (A1,45m), Swanage, Dorset




Delving into a hidden sea cave in a weird and exciting climbing experience.

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Climbing into a sea cave is definitely closer to the adventurous end of the climbing spectrum. Benny, a route at the Promenade in Swanage has buckets of character and commitment. The route's reputation precedes it, because if climbed in rough seas it can be lethal. Fortunately, we picked a calm day with minimal swell and a low tide. 

The Approach

Getting to Benny is relatively straightforward. From the Durlstone carpark a beautiful coastal walk Westerly along the Durlstone coast for 10 minutes cutting down to the cliff edge just before a style. Then an easy down-climb or abseil into the Promenade followed by some ledge scrambling over some water channels brings you to the mouth of the zawn.


The abseil in

 




Awkward scrambling

 

 Here the route begins as pitch one has you climbing round the corner into the cave. The rock is soaked and unclimbable and as such you are forced to dangle from in-situ threads, many of which are way passed their best. Aid climbing is hard work especially where it gets steep. I put a couple of wires in to aid from as some threads are out of reach. I also get my knife out and cut off some of the threadbare tatt and replace with some new pieces (They have been known to snap on previous parties, this would lead to a dunking!).


Entering the Cave

 





Dangling from some dubious threads

 


Finally, fully committed, I pull up onto the belay. It took an hour! Pilar follows and takes a similar time to join me at the rather cramped ledge at the back of the cave.

 


Me at the belay

 

Pilar in Aid Mode


Clip and Dangle

Pitch two is great chimney climbing (similar to Innerspace at Pembroke). We have our headlamps on (essential), and the rock is wet, however with large holds and weird colourful geology is great fun. A good lead from Pilar.

Chinmeying

 

The look down

 


Looking up at the exit light

Emerging from the cave mouth is a weird experience as it's bright sunshine and great views. The final pitch is disappointingly short and serves only to top out.

Emerging

 

Me on the top out pitch

 

Awesome route and a must for climbers looking for something a bit different and adventurous. The next step in our sea cave apprenticeship is Preposterous Tales in Pembroke- now there's route!

Pilar Topping out