Fairhead in County Antrim, Northern Ireland has a reputation of being the best trad climbing in the British Isles. Huge dolerite columns towering above a protruding headland the cliffs are a real landmark and a well known tourist attraction. Pilar and I headed out in the Red Arrow to check them out.
On the first day we decided to ease ourselves in. We had heard the climbing style here is brutal crack climbing on steep rock. The Ballcastle Descent Gulley East routes are easily accessible (from the gulley), are two pitches long, and offer some good moderately graded pitches. We climb...
Girona (VS 5a, 47m)
Hell's Kitchen (HVS 5a, 66m)
|
 | | Ballycastle Gulley |
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 | | On Girona |
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|
 | | Hells Kitchen |
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 | | Bridging on Hells Kitchen |
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Girona is a good warm up. Its high in the VS grade with a physical crux. Hell's Kitchen a typical Fairhead corner climb (of which there are many). Well protected all the way but with graunchy hand jamming.
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Corner climbing
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Day two see's us heading to the Prow. This is another easily accessible section of the cliff that gives friendly single pitch crack climbs to 40m. We climb....
Midnight Cruiser (E1 5b, 36m) Brilliant crack practice
Fáth Mo Bhuartha (E1 5b, 35m) Tough climbing! Top end E1 crack
The Fence (VS 4c, 32m) Great bridging, back & footing, and of course crack!
 | | Midnight Cruiser E1 |
|  | | The Fence VS |
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 | | A fierce E1 - Fáth Mo Bhuartha |
|  | | Red Arrow Camping Spot |
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Day three see's us heading for Blind Pew (E2 5b, 60m). We thought it'd be the next obvious choice being reasonably easy to to access and apparently slightly soft at the grade. I jump on pitch one. This is your typical Fairhead corner. Graunchy, physical and completely brilliant. The protection abundant and the climbing really enjoyable. I was loving it so far.
|
 | | Pitch one of Blind Pew |
|
 | | Pilar 2nding Pitch1 |
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On the belay stance whilst I was racking up read for pitch 2 we noticed it was getting very dark. Gradually spots of rain occurred and whilst getting worried I didn't panic yet. I did panic however when this drizzle turned to proper rain. I panicked more when we heard the rumble of thunder. Pilar remains calm however and rationalises the situation.
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| Pitch one- Still all smiles |
The rain eases slightly and I start pitch 2. After only two or three moves I am forced to aid climb.The rock is soaked and a section of slab climbing (rare for Fairhead) is impossible to free climb. I swing and dangle from slings urgently making upwards progress just as I see a flash of sheet lightening. I try to free climb again on the final twin crack system but it would be far too dangerous. A fall now would make things really urgent. As such I aid my way up and eventually, pulling on the final cam, pull over the top into a howling wind and driving rain.
 | | Pilar in the wet |
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The rain eases somewhat as Pilar joins me at the top. However on the walk out the rain really picks up and we end up soaked to the skin.
|
 | | Morning drying |
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 | Drying the kit after the storm
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Exhausted from constant climbing we have a sunny rest day in the beautiful Murlough Bay. This place is really stunning!
|
 | | Murlough Bay |
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 | | Swim Time |
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We had already decided to head out west the next day to Donegal however we bagged a nice two pitch HVS at the Binnagapple area of the crag (December HVS 5a, 55m). Great to climb on the eastern side we knocked this typical corner climb super quick before hitting the road.
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 | | The Binnagapple |
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 | | December HVS |
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Fairhead is on the list for a return visit. Incredible climbing. And most of all wonderful scenery.
|
 | | Belay heaven |
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 | | Dawn! |
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