We had a two-week
road trip in Ireland to look forward to and our first stop was the Isle of
Anglesey in North Wales - well known for some of the best adventure trad routes
in the UK at Gogarth Bay.
<NEXT POST PREVIOUS POST>
We made the obvious
choice to head straight for Wen Slab to climb a long time objective of
mine, The
Quartz Icicle (E2 5b, 70m) . This route is very sustained and follows a
thin quartz vein up the quartzite slab. On pitch one the moves are thin and
technical and protection, though abundant, can be fiddly to place. Pitch two is
steady climbing over exposed overlaps. A great route to start our holiday.
|
 | Me - from a bystander
|
|
 | ME
|
|
|
 | Nearing Top out
|
|
 | | Looking down at P1 |
|
Pilar then led both
pitches of A
Concrete Dream (HVS 5a, 95m). This is undoubtedly the best way
to access the amazing final pitch of the classic A dream of White Horses. The
access pitch (part of Concrete Chimney) is in itself a really good pitch on
interesting rock. The "Dream" pitch is as good as always,
traversing into wild terrain. A good lead from Pilar.
|
 | | Pilar leading Pitch one |
|
 | | Us from the other side |
|
|
 | Pilar on Concrete Chimney
|
|
 | | The Dream Pitch |
|
Whilst climbing an
eery mist bank rolled in giving the place an amazing and quite beautiful
atmosphere. Stunning!
|
 | | Stunning!! |
|
 | | Eery |
|
|
 | | Above the Clouds |
|
 | | Dropping back in |
|
With the perfect
weather continuing the next day we decide to bag the classic Red Walls
adventure climb Wendigo
(E2 5b, 75m). We spend well over an hour setting up the enormous abseil as it isn't
completely clear where the drop-in point is. Eventually we find ourselves
at the base of this intimidating cliff ready to climb.
|
 | | Scopping out the abseil |
|
 | | Huge Rappel |
|
Pilar sets us off and
leads for 35m up to a hanging stance. This pitch is quite sandy and felt about
E1 with a cruxy overhang to negotiate.. She actually led to the halfway point
on the route rather than stop at the "official" pitch one belay. I
set off on my pitch which is a similar length of sustained climbing on vertical
rock, massive holds and buckets of atmosphere. Protection is a bit awkward but
with some perseverance there is ample. That said the walls at South Stack have
a reputation and are known to be comprised of very soft rock. This gives all
the routes here the "Dont Fall Off" warning.
|
 | | Pitch 1 Crux |
|
 | | Hanging out. From a Kayakers view |
|
|
 | | Mid point Belay |
|
 | | Us from a Kayaker |
|
Undeniably one of the
most memorable routes in the UK I have climbed. So different and unusual. And a
real involved experience in a wonderful place.
 |
| Admiring the route |
We continue our trip
across the Irish Sea for some real sea cliff fun. TBC..
 |
| Leaving Wales behind..... |
LATEST POSTS CATEGORIES
