With the usual winter storms battering the British Isles we headed back to the Anti-Atlas -The best quartzite trad climbing in the world!
We booked ourselves in to the Ksar Rock Guesthouse again for a week. This charming place is nestled in the Anfantinzar Valley with some of the region's best climbs in it's doorstep. We love the simplicity of life here and it's impossible not to switch off completely from everyday life in the West. The Anti-Atlas is gaining in popularity and on this trip we met so many likeminded folk staying at the guesthouse. All climbers and adventurers relishing this beautiful part of the world. And we shared many stories of travels and climbs whilst enduring the cold evenings in the small dining room of the guesthouse as Fatima served us Berber bread and Tagine.
 | | The New Dinning Room |
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 | | Red Sky from the Room |
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We started out on the Aougenz Road at a new crag for us called Faulty Towers. The route we climbed
(Gimme Shelter, HVS 5a, 110m) was really nothing to rave about. It was average climbing without a strong line but for a first day it fitted well.
 | | First Moody Day on he Aougenz Road |
|  | | Pilar leading off on Gimme Shelter |
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Day 2 saw us climbing the classic Ben and Marion Wintringham route
Braveheart (E1 5a, 205m). This route with an easy walk in from the Samazar Hairpins and in shade all day takes an aesthetic line up a striking arete. Some of the climbing is very bold! In fact the route is really a bold HVS with amenable climbing in exposed and run-out situations. We loved it.
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 | A high Pitch
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 | The Arete clearly visible
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 | Pilar pitch 3
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 | Me on Pitch 1
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In keeping with E1 classics we walked over to Lower Eagle Rock on day 3. Literally bang opposite the Guesthouse it was calling to be climbed. The black streak of
Black Beauty (E1 5b 210m) clearly visible from our room. The route gets no sun which in the Anti Atlas is usually ideal. However, in late December it was slightly cooler and we did find it a touch fresh until we were rewarded with glorious sunshine on the final pitch. The climbing is superb and has a distinct crux on pitch 4. Here bold moves into a steep groove ensure you stay focused.
 | The black streak clearly visible
from the new roof terrace
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 | The early walk in
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 | Me on the black streak
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 | | Great backdrop |
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 | | A shady belay |
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 | Topping out in sun!
Note: Zsar Rock Guesthouse
opposite |
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Wanting an easy day we choose the Igiliz-Agouti Traverse (MS, 500m) the next day. It takes a logical traverse of three good looking peaks in the Samazar Valley. Being at a low grade we decided to move together "Alpine Style" (though in hindsight soloing the route may have been preferable). The three peaks (Igiliz, Agouti East, and Agouti West) are easy to access from the Samazar road (now surfaced). However, the day was far from easy. With the complex scrambling descents being as arduous as the ascents it felt like a full-on outing and we returned to the guesthouse feeling more fatigued than expected (plus I as getting a cold).
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| The 3 peaks clearly visible behind |
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 | Classic moving together Alpine style
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 | On the middle peak
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 | Classic ridge scrambling
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 | Agouti West still to climb
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Some sunny cragging on Dragon Rock followed after a visit to Ida Ougnidif market. One of the best crags in the Samazar valley it was perfect for a semi-rest day. Pilar dispatched Flight of the Pheonix (HVS 4c, 30m). And I led Pheonix Direct (E1 5B 30m)
We decided to explore the Jebel Taskra area the next day. This area in the north of the range is reasonably new to us. A lapse in common sense made us follow the Google maps GPS which took us over a mountain pass. This horrendous ordeal had me gripped with fear for 2 hours! Whilst short sections of the road was concreted the majority was a rocky narrow track. So rocky and narrow in fact that I was terrified the car would get stuck, the petrol tank get punctured or the road become completely impassable (we couldn't turn the car around at any point and we were miles from civilization). This white-knuckle ride took 2 hours and resulted in a damaged bumper to the hire car and some very frayed nerves.
 | | The View was worth it |
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 | | This section paced at least |
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Finally at Tramline Slabs, a nice shady venue with a good clutch of 150m routes, we jump on
Marrakesh Express (E1 5b 105m). The crag classic it has some burley jamming cracks. Only three pitches long however and due to our debacle over the mountain we couldn't fit another route in. However for a cool shady crag its on the list for further visits.
 | | Pitch one. Techy |
|  | | Pitch 3. Burly |
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| Walking past the great Asseldrar Thumb |
With the weather now turning much cooler we decide to head down to the Hotel Les Amandiers in Tafraout town. On route we climb
Crazy Mushroom Ridge Direct (E1 5b, 190m). An silent fog rising from the Tagzine valley it was an eerie atmosphere. A great route with an easy approach and descent and a punchy steep arete to climb on pitch 2.
Tafraout was busier with tourists than I remember. And the climbing scene seemed to have picked up in popularity. We stayed at the Les Amandiers as per usual, though ate out most evenings as the choice for restaurants is getting very good.
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| The Granite bowl of Trafroute |
We climbed
Gamma (HVS 5a 195m) on Greek Buttress the next day. This great looking crag on the eastern side of the Massif overlooks the desert and the distant high Atlas. It gives very different views than if climbing in the central valleys but it is shady from mid morning and the wind off the desert can be brutal. Wearing everything we had we managed to keep the belay ledge shivers away though the rock felt like ice. However we enjoyed the route and had a nice walk down in the afternoon sunshine.
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Greek Buttress. Not in the sun for long
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 | | A High Pitch |
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 | | The Awesome Decent |
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 | | Wearing everything |
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 | | Views across the dessert |
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The next day we had a semi-rest day cragging at the brilliant Palm Tree Gorge. Pilar dispatched
Crocodile Dundee (HVS 4c, 30m) and I bagged
Tresonga (E2 5b, 30m) .
 | | Pilar setting off |
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 | | Crack Climbing |
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The Whale fin like ridge of Infinity Ridge (Difficult, 940m) was on our list to climb. It starts from the isolated mountain settlement of Tagdicht (with good little coffee shop). We chose to solo the route in comfy all-day climbing shoes (but wore harnesses and had a rope in the bag. Just in case). This proved a good strategy and although there is an abseil on route, we could bypass this by downclimbing with ease. The positions on the ridge were great, the climbing consistent throughout, and the rock good quality. Even the decent was straightforward (though the routes doesnt actually top out and one can continue upwards on further easy terrain if desired). This Alpine-like ridge is definitely a must for lovers of long, exposed, technically easy ridge climbing. Our ascent took a 6.5h round trip. Very worthwhile!
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| Multiple False summits |
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 | Joy
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 | Ridge Scrambling
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 | Nearly there
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| Ridge Summit |
The Dagdicht lovely little spot for a coffee.....
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| The Route Behind |
Whilst Tafraout is a great little town we missed the hospitality of the Ksar Rock Guesthouse and the convenience of being in the heart of the mountains. So we decided to head back up there where we cragged at Faulty Towers on the Aougenz Road and at Kzar rock behind the guest house. Temperatures were definitely low and there was scattered hail and rain around the valleys.
Ksar Rock Routes
Pelez E1 5b, 35m (Very decent long pitch)
Civilization HVS 4c, 30m (Fantastic. Good lead by Pilar)
Faulty Towers Routes
Corner Major VS 4c 60m (Pilar led both pitches. Adventurous climbing with a mountaineering feel. A good route. Big abseil decent)
Climber and Rambler VS 4c 70m (Very average climbing and a poor line. Just something to do as temperatures were plummeting.)
Our final day in the mountains was spent walking and scrambling. We completed a brilliant circuit into the Tagzine Gorge with lots of boulder hopping and scrambling. Additionally enjoyed a high level walk from Zsar Rock to Ice Box Canyon overlooking the Samazar Valley. Spectacular!
Given the cold weather we spent a day on the coast before flying home to a rain sodden England. Morocco once again proving to be a special place full of variety and adventure....
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| Tourists and Camels |
