We start out on Clogwyn y Bustach. A good clean 30m wall of Ryolite where I warm us up on Flake Wall HVS 5a, 30m. No dramas and a decent route.
 | | Me flying up Flake Wall |
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 | | Steve on Titius |
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Steve then jumps on Titus (E2 5c, 30m) another sustained 30m pitch with a thin technical mid section.
My turn then to bag some E points and l go for the logical line to the left - Groan (E2 5b, 25m) - a tough pitch with a thin sequence followed by some burly jamming.
Thoroughly enjoying the climbing, the scenery and the peace (we had the crag to ourselves) we move to the lower buttress of Bustach Isaf. This is a smaller crag that looks insignificant. However, the traversing line of
Gaia Power (E2 5b) really sqeezes as much fun out of this little outcrop as it can. And at a friendly grade too. Steve dispatched this first-class little number without issue.
 | | Me mid crux on Groan |
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 | | Pilar admires the view |
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Myself and Pilar (who had come up to Wales for some walking) van bivvied in a reasonably quiet spot in a forestry car park. Van camping is definitely becoming an issue in places like Snowdonia. With overcrowding of car parks every layby seemed to have a van (or motorhome) in it. This bank holiday was chaos on the roads in North Wales and we made every effort to avoid the chaos.
 | | Bivvying in the Forestry Park |
|  | | The Slate mountain at Clipiau |
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We head to Craig Y Clipiau on Sunday. A more popular venue, this has routes to cater for all abilities. The industrial heritage of the area is obvious as the crag straddles an enormous scree slope of slate. We warm up soloing a pleasant VDiff (Africa Rib, VDIFF, 50m). It is easy climbing, but I always feel a bit nervy climbing when not tied into to a rope. Plus the move off the floor is crazy hard and would give a tough time for many a V Diff leader.
 | | VDIFF boulder problem start |
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 | | Me soloing above a sea of slate |
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I then jump on a classic Great Feet/Mean Feat (E1 5b, 35m). This is a super classic and the climbing is technical, a little bold at first, then well protected three-dimensional corner climbing (which to me was the crux and definitely fall-offable). An outstanding long pitch.
Steve had his eye on The Muleman (E2 5b, 35m) a little-travelled traverse. I led pitch one (pitch one of Double Criss, VS 5a) and end up belaying in a hanging corner with a ton of rope drag. However Steve's traverse pitch is about as much fun as it gets on rock crossing the great wall of Crimson Cruiser (E5) and space walking in airy positions.
 | | Clipiau viewed from Bustach |
|  | | Working out gear options on Big Feet |
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I finish the day leading Thin Wall/Pearl (E2 5c, 35m). By now moving on the rough rhyolite feels completely natural and despite a couple of bold moves I enjoy the face climbing style.
 | | Steve 2nding |
|  | | Muleman's airy traverse |
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The whole time Pilar was free to hobble around the mountains with her camera...
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 | | Me Belaying |
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 | | Steve's Dog - Bula |
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Pilar and I pitched up overlooking Lyn Mair for the night (a nice little spot) and were up early to head to Craig Rwu Goch. This tidy little crag comes into its own in dry conditions. There is little in the lower grades but for those operating in the low extremes it's a gem of a crag when dry.
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 | | Llyn Mair |
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 | | A cracking van spot |
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I start us off on Smiler's Route (E1 5b, 30m). It was a touch green lower down and the climbing sustained from leaving the deck. The route proved more like solid E2 than E1. The fact it used to be graded HVS is ridiculous. The final groove (after 20m of steep climbing), is an absolute battle. Hard stuff!
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 | | Me battling Smilers |
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 | | Bridging to Glory |
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Steve led the crag classic The Riparian (E2 5c, 30m). On paper a touch harder than Smiler's though in reality about the same. But one of the best pitches of the trip. The crag felt steeper and a bit more go-ey than previous venues but with a picturesque river backdrop it feels more like climbing in the Lake District. Highly memorable for those looking for quality trad extremes.
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 | | Steve on Riparian |
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 | A gorgeous wood to play in
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The Molwyns really restored my faith in British Trad climbing. Good none-polished rock, with long pitches in tranquil environs - even on a Bank Holiday. One to come back to.
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| Pilar on the Summit of a Molwynian hill. |
