Kor Ingalls Route (5.9+, 140m), Castleton Tower, Utah




Climbing the iconic Castleton Tower in Utah via Kor Ingalls (5.9ish).

<NEXT POST    PREVIOUS POST>

Geoff had the great idea of climbing Castleton Tower via Kor Ingalls Route (5.9+) and we made the drive out from Moab to camp near by. The tower is just one of hundreds of sandstone monoliths that pepper the Utah desert and it offers a multitude of routes, Kor Ingals being extremely popular.

A late night sort of the gear

The route follows an obvious corner in about 6 pitches to the summit. The climbing well protected and steady. The crux pitch has a couple of stiff moves on  smooth slippy calcite that has a handy bolt to protect. No photos of the route unfortunately as my compact camera came to grief in Red Rocks. 

 

The steep approach

 

Me pre climb

 

Me post climb - Highly dehydrated

 

Local resident

On the summit we topped out with the party ahead along with other teams topping out from other routes. It was blowing a gale and a kind man decided to fix a single 70m abseil rope for everyone to descend on (he himself coming down after in two abseils). This abseil was quite an experience as I didn’t bother with a back up prussik. 70m of free hanging abseil on a single skinny rope! By the end l could feel my grip getting tired and was clasping the rope for dear life. I vowed to use a prussik in future.

 

A party simul-rappelling 

 



Me with The Rectory towers behind


Great route. Fantastic landscape. Bit of a slog of an approach but hell it’s worth it!